My wife and I were able to stay overnight there, we arrived at the tail end of the tourist throng, had a great dinner and then walked around the largely deserted streets. We watched the tide come in under the light of a bright moon and it was beautiful. Thanks for bringing that memory back.
I found it almost magical and empty. I stood at the top in the cloister all alone for almost an hour before anybody else came in. It was like all the other tourists were sidelined into the shops on the way up. There were no tour groups and just one other couple as I walked around the cathedral.